How Fiction Works

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Near the beginning of How Fiction Works, James
Wood announces that his favourite 20th-century critics of the novel
are “the Russian formalist Viktor Shklovsky and the French
formalist-cum-structuralist Roland Barthes”. His admiration does
not, however, prevent him from describing their ideas in his next
breath as “interesting but wrong-headed”. For at the heart of
Wood’s criticism is a quarrel with formalism.
This is not to say that Wood is reluctant to consider how
fiction “works” in the functional sense of the word. As its title
suggests, his third book of literary criticism is a kind of primer
that discusses the basic elements of fiction - language, character,
dialogue, and so on - drawing its examples from some of the
greatest novels of the past two centuries.
But Wood is deeply antipathetic to any suggestion that
literature might be understood solely as a collection of devices
and conventions. His response to an essay by the American novelist
William Gass, in which Gass slices one of Henry James’ characters
into a list of tropes, is unequivocal. Such an approach, he argues,
is “deeply, incorrigibly wrong”.
The observation that literature is a structure of words is
little more than a truism. It takes no account of why we read in
the first place. The most important thing is always how a fictional
representation relates to life.
At the bottom of all Wood’s inquiries is an abiding concern with
“the real”. There is no necessary contradiction, he argues, between
fiction’s artifice and its capacity to depict reality; indeed, it
derives much of its potency from the necessary tension between
these two aspects.
How Fiction Works is, in this sense, something of a
manifesto. Like Wood’s previous collections of critical essays,
The Broken Estate and The Irresponsible Self, it
stresses the importance of realist practice in fiction, and in
doing so advocates a certain stance toward literature itself.
Wood is interested, not simply in how fiction “works” in a
technical sense, but in the rather more elusive sense of how it
affects us, how it brings realities to mind, how it teaches us to
become better observers of ourselves and others. He is particularly
interested in its ability to convey psychological insight. He is
always reading with an eye for this “sudden capturing of a central
human truth, this moment when a single detail has enabled us to see
a character’s thinking (or lack of it)”.
For Wood, who greatly admires the Russian realist Anton Chekhov,
detail is the lifeblood of great literature. As Chekhov well
understood, we tend to give ourselves away in our smallest
gestures. It is through precision of detail and vividness of
metaphor that fiction addresses our sense of the real.
This fascination with detail is both a strength and a weakness
of Wood’s criticism. He is, philosophically and temperamentally, a
close reader who rarely feels the need to step back and take in a
novel’s architecture. The glaring omission from the book’s chapters
on the various aspects of fiction is plot. When Wood discusses
narrative he prefers to speak of the flaneur’s gaze and the
development of free indirect style, rather than the workaday issues
of dramatic complication, rising action and denouement.
That Wood is not particularly interested in the way narrative
pushes toward resolution - the way it seems, on some deep level, to
demand it - is significant. However incorrigibly wrong Gass may be
about character, he was right when he said that all stories are
“sneaky justifications”.
Wood has good reason to be wary of plot. As he was apt to point
out in his timely attack upon the overheated style of fiction he
dubbed “hysterical realism”, there is nothing that destroys a
fictional work’s credibility quite so effectively as one outrageous
coincidence too many. It is plot, more than detail, that pushes the
limitless variety of experience into a particular shape. Life
simply isn’t like that, as Chekhov observed; but stories and novels
certainly are like that, including those couched in Chekhovian
ambiguity.
Of course, part of the difficulty in talking about how fiction
works is that it refuses to be corralled. The Russian critic
Mikhail Bakhtin suggested that the novel cannot be considered a
genre because it has no fixed formal properties; it is, rather, a
constantly evolving anti-genre that omnivorously gobbles up
techniques and dialects. As Wood puts it, the novel is “the great
virtuoso of exceptionalism: it always wriggles out of the rules
thrown around it” - including his own.
In the midst of a spirited defence of realism against those,
such as Gass and Rick Moody, who have expressed impatience with its
conventions, Wood digresses to observe that certain works by Franz
Kafka and Samuel Beckett might not depict “likely or typical human
activity but are nevertheless harrowingly truthful texts”.
One takes the point, but this is lame. It blithely goes against
so many of Wood’s arguments. Suddenly he wants to have his realist
cake and eat it. The “real” obviously won’t do as an explanation of
a story in which a man turns into a giant beetle, so “truth” steps
in to rescue an obviously important work from critical oblivion.
The “real” is fundamental to literature, it seems, except when it
isn’t.
By making reality interchangeable with truth, effectively at his
own pleasure, Wood makes both concepts promiscuous.
On this question, How Fiction Works might have
benefited from a more concerted engagement with some strong
exceptions to the general thrust of its argument: Laurence Sterne’s
classic anti-novel, Tristram Shandy, for example, which is
about the impossibility of realism; or more recent novels, such as
Catch-22 or A Confederacy of Dunces, which would
appear to be excluded from Wood’s definition of comedy on the
grounds that they are much too funny.
In The Irresponsible Self, Wood made it clear that he
regards farcical or satirical humour as an inferior mode, and this
preference was a feature of his critique of the hysterical
realists. But (as long as we are throwing the term about) there is
certainly no shortage of “truth” in Joseph Heller’s brilliantly
absurd anti-war novel.
Wood is aware of this promiscuousness and the equivocations it
requires. Realism, he acknowledges, is an indistinct and
problematic term; less an identifiable genre than an impulse in
fiction. He attempts to work around this difficulty by coining a
rather feeble neologism - “lifeness” - to denote “life on the page”
evoked via the “highest artistry”. This concept, he suggests, might
be applied to any style of fiction. But this makes “lifeness”
itself close to a truism: it says that what works, works.
Wood is nevertheless right to suggest that formalism on its own
can never be enough; it will never feel like a satisfactory
explanation of a great book. While there are cases where it could
be argued that authors have succeeded in wresting language away
from its denotative quality to revel in the free play of sound and
rhythm - certain passages in James Joyce or Gertrude Stein, for
example - no piece of writing, not even Finnegans Wake -
can set up permanent camp in pure abstraction without ceasing to be
language at all. In this sense, fiction does always enter into a
relationship with a reality beyond itself and can evoke the truths
of lived experience.
Wood’s deserved reputation as an important critic rests upon his
willingness to insist upon this central humanist impulse of
literature. How Fiction Works is a pithy, lucid,
inconsistent, argumentative and opinionated piece of popular
criticism. It deserves to be widely read.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Related posts

How Fiction Works

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Near the beginning of How Fiction Works, James
Wood announces that his favourite 20th-century critics of the novel
are “the Russian formalist Viktor Shklovsky and the French
formalist-cum-structuralist Roland Barthes”. His admiration does
not, however, prevent him from describing their ideas in his next
breath as “interesting but wrong-headed”. For at the heart of
Wood’s criticism is a quarrel with formalism.
This is not to say that Wood is reluctant to consider how
fiction “works” in the functional sense of the word. As its title
suggests, his third book of literary criticism is a kind of primer
that discusses the basic elements of fiction - language, character,
dialogue, and so on - drawing its examples from some of the
greatest novels of the past two centuries.
But Wood is deeply antipathetic to any suggestion that
literature might be understood solely as a collection of devices
and conventions. His response to an essay by the American novelist
William Gass, in which Gass slices one of Henry James’ characters
into a list of tropes, is unequivocal. Such an approach, he argues,
is “deeply, incorrigibly wrong”.
The observation that literature is a structure of words is
little more than a truism. It takes no account of why we read in
the first place. The most important thing is always how a fictional
representation relates to life.
At the bottom of all Wood’s inquiries is an abiding concern with
“the real”. There is no necessary contradiction, he argues, between
fiction’s artifice and its capacity to depict reality; indeed, it
derives much of its potency from the necessary tension between
these two aspects.
How Fiction Works is, in this sense, something of a
manifesto. Like Wood’s previous collections of critical essays,
The Broken Estate and The Irresponsible Self, it
stresses the importance of realist practice in fiction, and in
doing so advocates a certain stance toward literature itself.
Wood is interested, not simply in how fiction “works” in a
technical sense, but in the rather more elusive sense of how it
affects us, how it brings realities to mind, how it teaches us to
become better observers of ourselves and others. He is particularly
interested in its ability to convey psychological insight. He is
always reading with an eye for this “sudden capturing of a central
human truth, this moment when a single detail has enabled us to see
a character’s thinking (or lack of it)”.
For Wood, who greatly admires the Russian realist Anton Chekhov,
detail is the lifeblood of great literature. As Chekhov well
understood, we tend to give ourselves away in our smallest
gestures. It is through precision of detail and vividness of
metaphor that fiction addresses our sense of the real.
This fascination with detail is both a strength and a weakness
of Wood’s criticism. He is, philosophically and temperamentally, a
close reader who rarely feels the need to step back and take in a
novel’s architecture. The glaring omission from the book’s chapters
on the various aspects of fiction is plot. When Wood discusses
narrative he prefers to speak of the flaneur’s gaze and the
development of free indirect style, rather than the workaday issues
of dramatic complication, rising action and denouement.
That Wood is not particularly interested in the way narrative
pushes toward resolution - the way it seems, on some deep level, to
demand it - is significant. However incorrigibly wrong Gass may be
about character, he was right when he said that all stories are
“sneaky justifications”.
Wood has good reason to be wary of plot. As he was apt to point
out in his timely attack upon the overheated style of fiction he
dubbed “hysterical realism”, there is nothing that destroys a
fictional work’s credibility quite so effectively as one outrageous
coincidence too many. It is plot, more than detail, that pushes the
limitless variety of experience into a particular shape. Life
simply isn’t like that, as Chekhov observed; but stories and novels
certainly are like that, including those couched in Chekhovian
ambiguity.
Of course, part of the difficulty in talking about how fiction
works is that it refuses to be corralled. The Russian critic
Mikhail Bakhtin suggested that the novel cannot be considered a
genre because it has no fixed formal properties; it is, rather, a
constantly evolving anti-genre that omnivorously gobbles up
techniques and dialects. As Wood puts it, the novel is “the great
virtuoso of exceptionalism: it always wriggles out of the rules
thrown around it” - including his own.
In the midst of a spirited defence of realism against those,
such as Gass and Rick Moody, who have expressed impatience with its
conventions, Wood digresses to observe that certain works by Franz
Kafka and Samuel Beckett might not depict “likely or typical human
activity but are nevertheless harrowingly truthful texts”.
One takes the point, but this is lame. It blithely goes against
so many of Wood’s arguments. Suddenly he wants to have his realist
cake and eat it. The “real” obviously won’t do as an explanation of
a story in which a man turns into a giant beetle, so “truth” steps
in to rescue an obviously important work from critical oblivion.
The “real” is fundamental to literature, it seems, except when it
isn’t.
By making reality interchangeable with truth, effectively at his
own pleasure, Wood makes both concepts promiscuous.
On this question, How Fiction Works might have
benefited from a more concerted engagement with some strong
exceptions to the general thrust of its argument: Laurence Sterne’s
classic anti-novel, Tristram Shandy, for example, which is
about the impossibility of realism; or more recent novels, such as
Catch-22 or A Confederacy of Dunces, which would
appear to be excluded from Wood’s definition of comedy on the
grounds that they are much too funny.
In The Irresponsible Self, Wood made it clear that he
regards farcical or satirical humour as an inferior mode, and this
preference was a feature of his critique of the hysterical
realists. But (as long as we are throwing the term about) there is
certainly no shortage of “truth” in Joseph Heller’s brilliantly
absurd anti-war novel.
Wood is aware of this promiscuousness and the equivocations it
requires. Realism, he acknowledges, is an indistinct and
problematic term; less an identifiable genre than an impulse in
fiction. He attempts to work around this difficulty by coining a
rather feeble neologism - “lifeness” - to denote “life on the page”
evoked via the “highest artistry”. This concept, he suggests, might
be applied to any style of fiction. But this makes “lifeness”
itself close to a truism: it says that what works, works.
Wood is nevertheless right to suggest that formalism on its own
can never be enough; it will never feel like a satisfactory
explanation of a great book. While there are cases where it could
be argued that authors have succeeded in wresting language away
from its denotative quality to revel in the free play of sound and
rhythm - certain passages in James Joyce or Gertrude Stein, for
example - no piece of writing, not even Finnegans Wake -
can set up permanent camp in pure abstraction without ceasing to be
language at all. In this sense, fiction does always enter into a
relationship with a reality beyond itself and can evoke the truths
of lived experience.
Wood’s deserved reputation as an important critic rests upon his
willingness to insist upon this central humanist impulse of
literature. How Fiction Works is a pithy, lucid,
inconsistent, argumentative and opinionated piece of popular
criticism. It deserves to be widely read.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Related posts

Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Like a polished display case in a fusty museum - carefully lit,
gleaming like crystal, secure as Fort Knox - the glass salumi
cabinet, on a long and handsome pink marble table beside a
fire-engine red, pedestal-mounted Berkel slicer, is the
centrepiece.
It tells more of the story than any other single element within
the craftily designed, outrageously sexy Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp;
Sons: Maurice Terzini and Robert Marchetti’s homecoming
performance.
Beyond the dangling prosciutto and guanciale, it is the story of
a restaurant through value-adding to pigs. Primacy of produce;
clever branding; Italian heritage; modern Australian style and
simplicity. Walk around the salumi table a few more times, inhale
deeply, and you’ll soon understand a bit more about one of the more
exciting restaurants to open in Melbourne for years.
Not that there’s anything radical about the food orchestrated by
chef/partner Robert Marchetti and his team, a slightly more
ambitious version of the rustic tune they’ve been playing at North
Bondi Italian for several years. It’s good, honest and refreshingly
unpredictable/approachable food that stays true to the Italian
principle of respecting quality produce from the start. It’s a menu
as much about “food” as it is “cooking”.
And Marchetti cares about food more than most.
No, what’s exciting about GAS is not so much what you eat but
how you eat, the way the act of refreshment and nourishment can be
spun so many ways. The way it invites customers to get involved.
And for that, we can probably thank Marchetti’s partner Terzini, a
man who apparently never stops questioning the rules of dining,
never stops looking for inspiration, in this case with a nod to New
York chef/restaurateur Mario Batali.
Despite the money, despite the hype, GAS is just a place to eat
good, simple food inspired by Rome. It’s nothing more or less than
a great modern trattoria.
But the style element of everything - from the architecture down
to the printing of the receipt - has been orchestrated by one of
the true innovators of Australia’s restaurant industry, the man who
invented Caffe e Cucina all those years ago, and kept going with Il
Bacaro, Melbourne Wine Room, Otto, Icebergs Dining Room and North
Bondi Italian: Terzini, the Melbourne boy made good. Cast your eye
around - beyond the menu (which may have you pining for the back
streets of Trastevere) - and other elements provide essential clues
to the essence: the spotlit bread station, where each table’s
selection of grissini, focaccia, sourdough and casalinga is racked,
cut and doled out; or that marble wine “fountain”, behind a
ceiling-high stainless-steel silo-like racking system of bottles,
where four fresh, uncomplicated, food-friendly wines are literally
on tap above a pink marble trough for those who choose the “vini in
caraffa” option, the house wine you can feel good about.
And there is the floor staff, replete in butcher’s white cotton
jackets, jeans and Converse trainers. Where does he find them?
Comparing Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp; Sons to Rockpool Bar %26amp; Grill
is both inevitable and pointless: they sail different culinary
waters, delivering different dining experiences. Yet one cannot
help but compare the casual sophistication of Maurice Terzini’s
opening-month waitstaff with that of Perry. GAS cruises where
Rockpool has always struggled with the wind shifts.
And inevitably, as you sit in one of many variously tiled “pods”
that form the eating zones here, jumping out at you via clever -
almost theatrical - lighting from a stark, black backdrop that
extends through the restaurant’s ceilings and floors, there is the
food, from a menu with more departments than Telstra.
Slices of pink, fresh prosciutto ($12) from Lismore on waxed
paper branded “Salumi by Robert Marchetti”. Or fragrant, sweet
mortadella ($10) served warm with a never-ending supply of those
excellent breads and house-branded olive oil. A dish of fabulous
spaghettini with tomato, oodles of garlic and a swathe of briny sea
urchin roe ($24); orecchiette with an anchovy-laced broccoli sauce;
perfectly “bitey” pappardelle with a deeply flavoured, meaty ragu
of “wild boar” ($23, although we doubt there was ever anything wild
about the animal). A wild chicory (puntarelle) salad ($17) with
Sicilian anchovy, dandelion, a shallot dressing and a shaving of
Asiago (cheese), served with a selection of vinegars. Raw scallops
($15) dressed with oil, lemon, young rocket and slices of pickled
dwarf peach, looking suspiciously like olives. A lovely steak (La
Tagliata, $29) dressed with a tangle of spring onion, green
peppercorns, lemon, oil and fresh chilli. A pea, shallot and fresh
herb salad ($9) sprinkled with dried ricotta salata.
Or a $14 chocolate pot that is like eating a stiff, cool,
Italian hot chocky; an Italian trifle (zuppa Inglese, $22 for two)
that sings with fruit, almond, pistachio and grappa-infused
sponge.
Trust me; apart from the salumi, which - ironically - is not
only excellent but too expensive, eating here is great value for
money, because the food’s simplicity falls back on great produce
handled sympathetically, with true Italian feeling.
Inevitably, really, the most interesting question about this new
restaurant was never going to be “is it any good?” Of course it’s
good. It has the management, the staff (both in the amazing kitchen
and on the floor), the ideas, the resources, the look.
The question was always: “will it work?” Look at everything
Terzini has done in the past, and more recently with his sidekick
Marchetti on board and you cannot help but wonder how a business at
Crown provides continuity. And the answer is, it doesn’t. This is a
break, a development and, probably, a toe in the water of
potentially more lucrative waters abroad under the PBL
umbrella.
How does that affect - or disaffect - quite literally a
generation of Melbourne food and wine appreciators who grew up on
the style and substance of Terzini-conceived establishments? Will
we go to it despite it being at Crown? Or does the target audience
even include us? On the basis of a couple of early visits when
Marchetti and Terzini were around, the answer is, for me, “yes”. I
may not go as often as if the restaurant were in a
less-institutionalised location, a location without so much
baggage.
But I’ll go.
Perhaps mindful of this very Melbourne scepticism, this
expectation of what a Terzini restaurant is and is not, the boys
have over-delivered. So to the final question. Can they keep it
up?
And for that, we’ll just have to wait.
Score: 1-9: Unacceptable.
10-11: Just OK, some shortcomings.
12: Fair. 13: Getting there.
14: Recommended. 15: Good.
16: Really good. 17: Truly
excellent. 18: Outstanding.
19-20: Approaching perfection, Victoria’s
best.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Related posts

Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Like a polished display case in a fusty museum - carefully lit,
gleaming like crystal, secure as Fort Knox - the glass salumi
cabinet, on a long and handsome pink marble table beside a
fire-engine red, pedestal-mounted Berkel slicer, is the
centrepiece.
It tells more of the story than any other single element within
the craftily designed, outrageously sexy Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp;
Sons: Maurice Terzini and Robert Marchetti’s homecoming
performance.
Beyond the dangling prosciutto and guanciale, it is the story of
a restaurant through value-adding to pigs. Primacy of produce;
clever branding; Italian heritage; modern Australian style and
simplicity. Walk around the salumi table a few more times, inhale
deeply, and you’ll soon understand a bit more about one of the more
exciting restaurants to open in Melbourne for years.
Not that there’s anything radical about the food orchestrated by
chef/partner Robert Marchetti and his team, a slightly more
ambitious version of the rustic tune they’ve been playing at North
Bondi Italian for several years. It’s good, honest and refreshingly
unpredictable/approachable food that stays true to the Italian
principle of respecting quality produce from the start. It’s a menu
as much about “food” as it is “cooking”.
And Marchetti cares about food more than most.
No, what’s exciting about GAS is not so much what you eat but
how you eat, the way the act of refreshment and nourishment can be
spun so many ways. The way it invites customers to get involved.
And for that, we can probably thank Marchetti’s partner Terzini, a
man who apparently never stops questioning the rules of dining,
never stops looking for inspiration, in this case with a nod to New
York chef/restaurateur Mario Batali.
Despite the money, despite the hype, GAS is just a place to eat
good, simple food inspired by Rome. It’s nothing more or less than
a great modern trattoria.
But the style element of everything - from the architecture down
to the printing of the receipt - has been orchestrated by one of
the true innovators of Australia’s restaurant industry, the man who
invented Caffe e Cucina all those years ago, and kept going with Il
Bacaro, Melbourne Wine Room, Otto, Icebergs Dining Room and North
Bondi Italian: Terzini, the Melbourne boy made good. Cast your eye
around - beyond the menu (which may have you pining for the back
streets of Trastevere) - and other elements provide essential clues
to the essence: the spotlit bread station, where each table’s
selection of grissini, focaccia, sourdough and casalinga is racked,
cut and doled out; or that marble wine “fountain”, behind a
ceiling-high stainless-steel silo-like racking system of bottles,
where four fresh, uncomplicated, food-friendly wines are literally
on tap above a pink marble trough for those who choose the “vini in
caraffa” option, the house wine you can feel good about.
And there is the floor staff, replete in butcher’s white cotton
jackets, jeans and Converse trainers. Where does he find them?
Comparing Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp; Sons to Rockpool Bar %26amp; Grill
is both inevitable and pointless: they sail different culinary
waters, delivering different dining experiences. Yet one cannot
help but compare the casual sophistication of Maurice Terzini’s
opening-month waitstaff with that of Perry. GAS cruises where
Rockpool has always struggled with the wind shifts.
And inevitably, as you sit in one of many variously tiled “pods”
that form the eating zones here, jumping out at you via clever -
almost theatrical - lighting from a stark, black backdrop that
extends through the restaurant’s ceilings and floors, there is the
food, from a menu with more departments than Telstra.
Slices of pink, fresh prosciutto ($12) from Lismore on waxed
paper branded “Salumi by Robert Marchetti”. Or fragrant, sweet
mortadella ($10) served warm with a never-ending supply of those
excellent breads and house-branded olive oil. A dish of fabulous
spaghettini with tomato, oodles of garlic and a swathe of briny sea
urchin roe ($24); orecchiette with an anchovy-laced broccoli sauce;
perfectly “bitey” pappardelle with a deeply flavoured, meaty ragu
of “wild boar” ($23, although we doubt there was ever anything wild
about the animal). A wild chicory (puntarelle) salad ($17) with
Sicilian anchovy, dandelion, a shallot dressing and a shaving of
Asiago (cheese), served with a selection of vinegars. Raw scallops
($15) dressed with oil, lemon, young rocket and slices of pickled
dwarf peach, looking suspiciously like olives. A lovely steak (La
Tagliata, $29) dressed with a tangle of spring onion, green
peppercorns, lemon, oil and fresh chilli. A pea, shallot and fresh
herb salad ($9) sprinkled with dried ricotta salata.
Or a $14 chocolate pot that is like eating a stiff, cool,
Italian hot chocky; an Italian trifle (zuppa Inglese, $22 for two)
that sings with fruit, almond, pistachio and grappa-infused
sponge.
Trust me; apart from the salumi, which - ironically - is not
only excellent but too expensive, eating here is great value for
money, because the food’s simplicity falls back on great produce
handled sympathetically, with true Italian feeling.
Inevitably, really, the most interesting question about this new
restaurant was never going to be “is it any good?” Of course it’s
good. It has the management, the staff (both in the amazing kitchen
and on the floor), the ideas, the resources, the look.
The question was always: “will it work?” Look at everything
Terzini has done in the past, and more recently with his sidekick
Marchetti on board and you cannot help but wonder how a business at
Crown provides continuity. And the answer is, it doesn’t. This is a
break, a development and, probably, a toe in the water of
potentially more lucrative waters abroad under the PBL
umbrella.
How does that affect - or disaffect - quite literally a
generation of Melbourne food and wine appreciators who grew up on
the style and substance of Terzini-conceived establishments? Will
we go to it despite it being at Crown? Or does the target audience
even include us? On the basis of a couple of early visits when
Marchetti and Terzini were around, the answer is, for me, “yes”. I
may not go as often as if the restaurant were in a
less-institutionalised location, a location without so much
baggage.
But I’ll go.
Perhaps mindful of this very Melbourne scepticism, this
expectation of what a Terzini restaurant is and is not, the boys
have over-delivered. So to the final question. Can they keep it
up?
And for that, we’ll just have to wait.
Score: 1-9: Unacceptable.
10-11: Just OK, some shortcomings.
12: Fair. 13: Getting there.
14: Recommended. 15: Good.
16: Really good. 17: Truly
excellent. 18: Outstanding.
19-20: Approaching perfection, Victoria’s
best.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Related posts

Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons

Monday, April 7th, 2008

Like a polished display case in a fusty museum - carefully lit,
gleaming like crystal, secure as Fort Knox - the glass salumi
cabinet, on a long and handsome pink marble table beside a
fire-engine red, pedestal-mounted Berkel slicer, is the
centrepiece.
It tells more of the story than any other single element within
the craftily designed, outrageously sexy Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp;
Sons: Maurice Terzini and Robert Marchetti’s homecoming
performance.
Beyond the dangling prosciutto and guanciale, it is the story of
a restaurant through value-adding to pigs. Primacy of produce;
clever branding; Italian heritage; modern Australian style and
simplicity. Walk around the salumi table a few more times, inhale
deeply, and you’ll soon understand a bit more about one of the more
exciting restaurants to open in Melbourne for years.
Not that there’s anything radical about the food orchestrated by
chef/partner Robert Marchetti and his team, a slightly more
ambitious version of the rustic tune they’ve been playing at North
Bondi Italian for several years. It’s good, honest and refreshingly
unpredictable/approachable food that stays true to the Italian
principle of respecting quality produce from the start. It’s a menu
as much about “food” as it is “cooking”.
And Marchetti cares about food more than most.
No, what’s exciting about GAS is not so much what you eat but
how you eat, the way the act of refreshment and nourishment can be
spun so many ways. The way it invites customers to get involved.
And for that, we can probably thank Marchetti’s partner Terzini, a
man who apparently never stops questioning the rules of dining,
never stops looking for inspiration, in this case with a nod to New
York chef/restaurateur Mario Batali.
Despite the money, despite the hype, GAS is just a place to eat
good, simple food inspired by Rome. It’s nothing more or less than
a great modern trattoria.
But the style element of everything - from the architecture down
to the printing of the receipt - has been orchestrated by one of
the true innovators of Australia’s restaurant industry, the man who
invented Caffe e Cucina all those years ago, and kept going with Il
Bacaro, Melbourne Wine Room, Otto, Icebergs Dining Room and North
Bondi Italian: Terzini, the Melbourne boy made good. Cast your eye
around - beyond the menu (which may have you pining for the back
streets of Trastevere) - and other elements provide essential clues
to the essence: the spotlit bread station, where each table’s
selection of grissini, focaccia, sourdough and casalinga is racked,
cut and doled out; or that marble wine “fountain”, behind a
ceiling-high stainless-steel silo-like racking system of bottles,
where four fresh, uncomplicated, food-friendly wines are literally
on tap above a pink marble trough for those who choose the “vini in
caraffa” option, the house wine you can feel good about.
And there is the floor staff, replete in butcher’s white cotton
jackets, jeans and Converse trainers. Where does he find them?
Comparing Giuseppe, Arnaldo %26amp; Sons to Rockpool Bar %26amp; Grill
is both inevitable and pointless: they sail different culinary
waters, delivering different dining experiences. Yet one cannot
help but compare the casual sophistication of Maurice Terzini’s
opening-month waitstaff with that of Perry. GAS cruises where
Rockpool has always struggled with the wind shifts.
And inevitably, as you sit in one of many variously tiled “pods”
that form the eating zones here, jumping out at you via clever -
almost theatrical - lighting from a stark, black backdrop that
extends through the restaurant’s ceilings and floors, there is the
food, from a menu with more departments than Telstra.
Slices of pink, fresh prosciutto ($12) from Lismore on waxed
paper branded “Salumi by Robert Marchetti”. Or fragrant, sweet
mortadella ($10) served warm with a never-ending supply of those
excellent breads and house-branded olive oil. A dish of fabulous
spaghettini with tomato, oodles of garlic and a swathe of briny sea
urchin roe ($24); orecchiette with an anchovy-laced broccoli sauce;
perfectly “bitey” pappardelle with a deeply flavoured, meaty ragu
of “wild boar” ($23, although we doubt there was ever anything wild
about the animal). A wild chicory (puntarelle) salad ($17) with
Sicilian anchovy, dandelion, a shallot dressing and a shaving of
Asiago (cheese), served with a selection of vinegars. Raw scallops
($15) dressed with oil, lemon, young rocket and slices of pickled
dwarf peach, looking suspiciously like olives. A lovely steak (La
Tagliata, $29) dressed with a tangle of spring onion, green
peppercorns, lemon, oil and fresh chilli. A pea, shallot and fresh
herb salad ($9) sprinkled with dried ricotta salata.
Or a $14 chocolate pot that is like eating a stiff, cool,
Italian hot chocky; an Italian trifle (zuppa Inglese, $22 for two)
that sings with fruit, almond, pistachio and grappa-infused
sponge.
Trust me; apart from the salumi, which - ironically - is not
only excellent but too expensive, eating here is great value for
money, because the food’s simplicity falls back on great produce
handled sympathetically, with true Italian feeling.
Inevitably, really, the most interesting question about this new
restaurant was never going to be “is it any good?” Of course it’s
good. It has the management, the staff (both in the amazing kitchen
and on the floor), the ideas, the resources, the look.
The question was always: “will it work?” Look at everything
Terzini has done in the past, and more recently with his sidekick
Marchetti on board and you cannot help but wonder how a business at
Crown provides continuity. And the answer is, it doesn’t. This is a
break, a development and, probably, a toe in the water of
potentially more lucrative waters abroad under the PBL
umbrella.
How does that affect - or disaffect - quite literally a
generation of Melbourne food and wine appreciators who grew up on
the style and substance of Terzini-conceived establishments? Will
we go to it despite it being at Crown? Or does the target audience
even include us? On the basis of a couple of early visits when
Marchetti and Terzini were around, the answer is, for me, “yes”. I
may not go as often as if the restaurant were in a
less-institutionalised location, a location without so much
baggage.
But I’ll go.
Perhaps mindful of this very Melbourne scepticism, this
expectation of what a Terzini restaurant is and is not, the boys
have over-delivered. So to the final question. Can they keep it
up?
And for that, we’ll just have to wait.
Score: 1-9: Unacceptable.
10-11: Just OK, some shortcomings.
12: Fair. 13: Getting there.
14: Recommended. 15: Good.
16: Really good. 17: Truly
excellent. 18: Outstanding.
19-20: Approaching perfection, Victoria’s
best.

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Related posts

China seeks to contain Tibet unrest

Wednesday, April 2nd, 2008

The western province of Qinghai was the latest area to report anti-government activities, with hundreds of civilians staging a sit-down protest after paramilitary police stopped them from marching, a Beijing-based source who spoke to residents said.
They were beating up monks, which will only infuriate ordinary people, the source said of the protest on Tuesday in Qinghais Xinghai county.
A resident in the area confirmed the demonstration, saying paramilitaries dispersed the 200 to 300 protesters after half and hour, that the area was crawling with armed security forces and that workers were kept inside their offices.
The Tibet unrest — and Chinas response to it — has also become a lightning rod for criticism of its Communist authorities ahead of the Beijing Olympics.
The head of the European Parliament has questioned whether European leaders should attend the opening of the Games and invited the Dalai Lama, the exiled leader of Tibetan Buddhism, to address the EU legislature on events in Tibet.
The unrest began with a series of peaceful marches in Lhasa earlier this month that soon led to a deadly riot. China says 19 people died in the violence, while representatives of the Tibetan government-in-exile say 140 died in clashes.
Protests later spread to parts of provinces bordering Tibet with large Tibetan populations.
The Beijing-based source said authorities were questioning people who had witnessed the Lhasa protests.
Its very harsh. They are taking in and questioning anyone who saw the protests, the source said. The prisons are full. Detainees are being held at prisons in counties outside Lhasa.
China has pinned the blame for the protests on the Dalai Lama, who lives in exile in India. He fled Tibet in 1959 after a failed uprising against Chinese rule, and denies he masterminded the demonstrations.
DEBATE OVER OLYMPICS
Speaking to President George W. Bush by telephone today, President Hu Jintao defended Beijings handling of the demonstrations and asserted that the Dalai Lama was behind violence and efforts to disrupt the Beijing Olympics, which Hu said prevented the government from conducting talks with him.
Any responsible government, faced with such violent criminal acts that are a serious violation of human rights, that seriously disrupt social order and seriously jeopardize peoples lives, property and safety, would not just sit there and watch, a statement on the ministrys web site paraphrased Hu as saying.
Despite international calls for Beijing to use restraint in its response to the unrest, the United States and Britain have reiterated their support for the Beijing Games.
Earlier, the speaker of the Himalayan regions parliament in exile said the Games should go ahead but be used to pressurize Beijing to conform with international rules.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy on Tuesday refused to rule out a possible boycott of the Olympics.
Chinas Foreign Ministry criticized French Foreign Minister Bernard Kouchner on Wednesday for saying he could not tolerate the crackdown and French Junior Minister for Human Rights, Rama Yade, for saying she would meet the Dalai Lama if he visited France.
Echoing Chinas public security minister, Chinese scholars vowed to press ahead with patriotic education in Tibets monasteries, accusing monks there of being duped by the Dalai Lama into supporting separatism.
The purpose of patriotic education is because the Dalai clique has been trying hard to disrupt development in Tibet and disrupt the normal practices of Tibetan Buddhism, Dramdul, who heads the Religious Studies Institute at the China Tibetology Research Centre, told a news conference.
RESENTMENT
Protests continued elsewhere. A Tibetan man tried to set himself on fire in eastern India, as security forces stopped him and hundreds of other marchers from entering Sikkim state, which borders China, according to a local police officer.
A small group of foreign and Chinese reporters have arrived in Lhasa on a tightly supervised trip organised by the Chinese government. The Dalai Lama expressed surprise when told about the visit.
Really? Then very good, but it should be with complete freedom — only then you can assess the real situation, he told reporters in New Delhi.
In a letter circulated by the Washington-based International Campaign for Tibet, a Lhasa resident described tight controls on religion and resentment over an influx of Han Chinese residents since a rail link was built to the remote, mountain region.
But, illustrating the gulf in views about the cause of unrest between Beijing and Lhasa, Lhagpa Phuntshogs, who directs the China Tibetology Research Centre, said the Dalai Lama had instigated marches among monks, who wanted to restore serfdom.
What do they want? I think its very clear that they want to try to restore the old theocracy in Tibet. The separatist elements are not happy with the end of theocracy in Tibet … and they are not happy with the end of backwardness in Tibet.

Tags: , , ,

Related posts

Grand Theft Auto IV Set to Hit Shelves in April

Saturday, March 1st, 2008

Publishing label Rockstar Games has said the latest in its Grand Theft Auto franchise will be released worldwide on April 29th, following last year’s high profile delay of the franchise to concentrate on its multi-platform release. GTA IV, which was originally slated for release last year, is expected to be one of the top-selling games of 2008 and is likely to revive debate over the series’ depictions of sex and violence. The game will be released worldwide on the Xbox 360 and PlayStation 3 consoles. After the date was announced, publisher Take-Two Interactive’s share price rose by more than 10 per cent. “We are so excited to be releasing ‘Grand Theft Auto IV,’” Sam Houser, founder and executive producer of Rockstar Games, said in a statement. “We’ve pushed ourselves very hard to make something incredible, and hope the game sets a new benchmark for interactive entertainment.”The game, that is one of the most anticipated titles of 2008 for Microsoft Xbox 360 and Sony PlayStation was initially scheduled to be launched on October 16, 2007, but in August the Take Two officials decided that there is no way the development team could meet the goal of perfecting the engine in time to meet the deadline.Strauss Zelnick, chairman, Take-Two, then said, “Certain elements of development proved to be more time-intensive than expected, especially given the commitment for a simultaneous release on two very different platforms As for the story of the game, Rockstar has released so far three trailers. GTA IV is taking us to Liberty City (a fictional city based on New York city). There are several references to Liberty City on buildings and objects, as well as several distinct features that make the city a replica of New York, including the Statute of Liberty, Empire State Building and the Brooklyn Bridge.The game though is looking like it is continuing to shape up with a great deal of polish to it, we will surely find out everything in April.

Tags: ,

Related posts

Grand Theft Auto IV Set to Hit Shelves in April

Sunday, February 24th, 2008

Publishing label Rockstar Games has said the latest in its Grand Theft Auto franchise will be released worldwide on April 29th, following last year’s high profile delay of the franchise to concentrate on its multi-platform release. GTA IV, which was originally slated for release last year, is expected to be one of the top-selling games of 2008 and is likely to revive debate over the series’ depictions of sex and violence. The game will be released worldwide on the Xbox 360 and PlayStation 3 consoles. After the date was announced, publisher Take-Two Interactive’s share price rose by more than 10 per cent. “We are so excited to be releasing ‘Grand Theft Auto IV,’” Sam Houser, founder and executive producer of Rockstar Games, said in a statement. “We’ve pushed ourselves very hard to make something incredible, and hope the game sets a new benchmark for interactive entertainment.”The game, that is one of the most anticipated titles of 2008 for Microsoft Xbox 360 and Sony PlayStation was initially scheduled to be launched on October 16, 2007, but in August the Take Two officials decided that there is no way the development team could meet the goal of perfecting the engine in time to meet the deadline.Strauss Zelnick, chairman, Take-Two, then said, “Certain elements of development proved to be more time-intensive than expected, especially given the commitment for a simultaneous release on two very different platforms As for the story of the game, Rockstar has released so far three trailers. GTA IV is taking us to Liberty City (a fictional city based on New York city). There are several references to Liberty City on buildings and objects, as well as several distinct features that make the city a replica of New York, including the Statute of Liberty, Empire State Building and the Brooklyn Bridge.The game though is looking like it is continuing to shape up with a great deal of polish to it, we will surely find out everything in April.

Tags: ,

Related posts

What Was Lost

Sunday, February 24th, 2008

After being rejected by 15 publishers and then
unexpectedly long-listed for the Booker, Orange and Guardian First
Book awards, British writer Catherine O’Flynn got finally had
success when What was Lost won the 2007 Costa (formerly
Whitbread) First Novel award.
What Was Lost is a refined and impressively original
story that takes place in the summers of 1984 and 2004. It opens
with a description of Kate Meaney, a precocious but socially
awkward 10-year-old whose only friend is Adrian, the slightly
perplexing young man who is the son of the newsagent whose small
business sits at the end of the street where Kate lives with her
grandmother.
Having recently lost her mother and her father, Kate is
unfathomably lonely and spends most of her school holidays alone,
holed up in various laneways and corners at Green Oaks, the newly
built local shopping centre, where she passes time watching
shoppers and keeping a detailed series of logbooks and diaries.
Bathed in the eerie glow of the hundreds of fluorescent bulbs
that light the centre, Kate’s conduct is vaguely reminiscent of
that of Louise Fitzhugh’s Harriet the Spy. Like Harriet,
she and her lifelong companion, Mickey the stuffed monkey, are the
proprietors of their own imaginary detective agency.
Falcon Investigations is dedicated to tracking the movements of
those whom Kate considers “suspicious and otherwise often the sorts
of people that go undetected and unseen, with their huge
blue-and-white-checked shopping bags full of cat food or baked
beans”.
In many ways, What Was Lost is more an aching paean to
the lost souls whose sad, wayward lives populate its pages than it
is a mystery story.
At the heart of the novel are two disappearances - that of
Kate’s mother, who ran away from her family, and that of Kate
herself.
It is her disappearance that, some 20 years later, slowly brings
together Kurt, an insomniac shopping-centre security guard, and
Lisa, Adrian’s sister, now grown up and reluctantly managing a
music store within the centre.
Kurt, who bides his time detaining shoplifters and watching
grainy CCTV footage, is a man consumed by loneliness; Lisa, too,
understands the ever-present ache of loneliness and although this
taut, compelling novel is set amid the dirty urban sprawl of
post-industrial Birmingham, it is really the internal geographies
of her flawed and life-weary protagonists that O’Flynn maps with a
deft and impressive eye.
The vast stretches of bitumen and concrete that comprise the
city function as a metaphor for the empty, emotionally bereft lives
of the men and women whose activities Kate chronicles in her
crisply perceptive logbooks and diaries.
Her vanishing haunts both Lisa and Kurt, whose memories of the
event are stirred when the image of a girl, also clutching a soft
toy, appears on one of Kurt’s monitors.
In the dank room where Kurt spends his days, O’Flynn unfolds a
second narrative thread that explores the unfolding personal
relationship between the shy security guard and the bored and
disaffected retail employee.
What was Lost is a dexterously imagined story. It
impressively fuses elements of mysteries that are never quite
solved with those of intimate human relationships that are as messy
as they are casual and redemptive.
A resoundingly bleak tale, it is also filled with pathos and
frequently made memorable by its descriptions of the urban
wasteland through which its small cast of characters move like
ghosts, eking out day-to-day existences that, it seems, will never
rise above the stultifying sadness that is bringing them
undone.

Tags: , , ,

Related posts

Grand Theft Auto IV Set to Hit Shelves in April

Saturday, February 23rd, 2008

Publishing label Rockstar Games has said the latest in its Grand Theft Auto franchise will be released worldwide on April 29th, following last year’s high profile delay of the franchise to concentrate on its multi-platform release. GTA IV, which was originally slated for release last year, is expected to be one of the top-selling games of 2008 and is likely to revive debate over the series’ depictions of sex and violence. The game will be released worldwide on the Xbox 360 and PlayStation 3 consoles. After the date was announced, publisher Take-Two Interactive’s share price rose by more than 10 per cent. “We are so excited to be releasing ‘Grand Theft Auto IV,’” Sam Houser, founder and executive producer of Rockstar Games, said in a statement. “We’ve pushed ourselves very hard to make something incredible, and hope the game sets a new benchmark for interactive entertainment.”The game, that is one of the most anticipated titles of 2008 for Microsoft Xbox 360 and Sony PlayStation was initially scheduled to be launched on October 16, 2007, but in August the Take Two officials decided that there is no way the development team could meet the goal of perfecting the engine in time to meet the deadline.Strauss Zelnick, chairman, Take-Two, then said, “Certain elements of development proved to be more time-intensive than expected, especially given the commitment for a simultaneous release on two very different platforms As for the story of the game, Rockstar has released so far three trailers. GTA IV is taking us to Liberty City (a fictional city based on New York city). There are several references to Liberty City on buildings and objects, as well as several distinct features that make the city a replica of New York, including the Statute of Liberty, Empire State Building and the Brooklyn Bridge.The game though is looking like it is continuing to shape up with a great deal of polish to it, we will surely find out everything in April.

Tags: ,

Related posts

Archives

January 2009
M T W T F S S
« Dec    
 1234
567891011
12131415161718
19202122232425
262728293031  

Other

Syndication